Leh-Manali - part 1

Tuesday 27 August

Here we go. The coming week seems to be the big one of this trip, probably because we go to the highest elevation of the trip tomorrow and because we're sleeping above 4000 metres.

We leave Leh with a descent to the Indus River valley which we follow to lunch at about 50 km after which the Indus valley narrows and we begin a steeper climb.

departing Leh via the Leh Gate

Gecko at the side f the road wondering what sort of crazy people are
heading uphill on bikes here

One of many nice things about travelling with TDA Global Cycling is that you can rely on a good roadside lunch lat morning. Today it was around 50 km where the Indus valley narrowed and we started the more serious climbing. After lunch we had about 25 km to go with a climb of 500 metres.

It's harvest time here and the field work is all manual.

Our overnight is just above 13,000 feet with us all packed into this guest house. As a couple, we're lucky that we get our own room. Others were sleeping four to a room and on cots wherever there was room. Clean. Basic. Food was good. And the Ladakh people are absolutely wonderful with their hospitality and friendliness and more relaxed then southern India. And for the rest of the week, we're outside wi-fi and cell service.

Traffic signs of the day

 

Wednesday 28 August

The big climb. Out of the guest house, turn right, climb 1300 metres in the next 38 km. Start in sunshine and avoid the goats that think they own the road.

The scenery is gorgeous, and it changes with every bend of the valley. Any place that offers some flat ground is cultivated.

Two hours later and we've only covered 14 km. And we haven't got to the switch-backs yet.

Yak in a pasture below us

Another hour and fifteen minutes and we can see the pass... still a long way to go

lunch

...then onwards and upwards around many hairpins...

Now after 2 o'clock, six hours of climbing, and still not there. Sweating like crazy from the effort, but those are cold dark clouds ahead.

Finally, an hour later, after three o'clock, we get to the top. 17,500 feet, second or third highest motorable pass in the world (depends who you talk to). Not much to see up there apart from the sign. This was a big moment for us - until you do it, you don't know how the body will respond to the altitude. One of our number had to stop and be taken back to Leh - he'll travel and meet us in Manali which is at lower altitude, just below 3000 metres.

 Weather is came in when we were at the top. Cold. First snow pellets, then ice pellets and rain. But the climbing was over and we now had mainly descent for the remaining nearly 40 km.

At last we can see the campsite at Tso Kar Lake. Just a little more rough road and a bit of dirt and we're there. Five thirty. Long day. We're not the fastest in the group. Nice to be greeted with a bowl of hot soup.

At 4600 metres, this is our highest altitude to sleep at. 

A couple more road signs today.

 

They're promising an easier day tomorrow.