Thursday 29 August
An easier day, just over 50 km, the first 45 km on a high pain, then a 200 metre in the last 5 km into Pang.
Awoke at Tso Kar to bright sunshine and cloud formations on the hills around.
Breakfast served in the tent, here one of the hard-working people who live up here for the four month season before it gets cut off by snow.
Chang pa nomads (we think) near the campsite this morning
Then off on the dirt path to head back to the main Leh-Manali highway...
We're overwhelmed by the beauty of the scenery...
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| not sure what species, but at least he sat still enough to get photographed |
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| Ursula with Helen, our doctor for the trip |
...and the view down to Pang for the 200 m descent. Pang comprises an Army camp at the left of the photo...
...plus a handful of very basic buildings...
...that serve travellers on the way through during the four months the road is open...
...Ursula negotiating the switchbacks - roads just don't go in straight lines here...
...descending into the canyon...
...and arriving in the thriving metropolis of Pang, still above 15,000 feet for the night.
Jackdaws are all around having a great time soaring and flying in loose formations and tail-chases in the mountain winds.
Our accommodation for the night...
Our room. The bed is concrete covered by mats... more comfortable than it sounds.
The kitchen, also dining room for those who don't have room in the adjacent room
We are constantly impressed at what people can do in these remote places and how they can earn a living in a four month season... it certainly is not for the lazy.
The dining room until we all leave at which time it became bedroom for several.
...and tomorrow's ride - climb to 5100 m, then a descent, climb back up to 4900 metres before a long descent to 4200 m and what looks like a shallow climb for the last 30 km, but which in reality is much tougher than it looks.
Friday 30 August... start in sunshine disturbing this little bird that appears to be heading to the nest with food for youngsters (a little late in the breeding season we'd think, but not the first time we've seen one of these behaving this way)
...then the weather turns foul as we continue slowly up the pass. Steep dropoffs on one side, steep upslope on the other. It takes nothing for there to be landslides. A lot of broken paving or just dirt, but also places where it is newly paved. Essentially single lane...
...so when the Army comes in convoy...
...can't do much other than stand aside...
AT least the weather cleared a bit by the time we got to the top... only four hours since breakfast and just 22 km behind us...
...and encouraging words from tour leader Emily. They keep good eye on us to keep us safe at altitude. Five vehicles, all with oxygen tanks in case of need. Impressive...
...what goes up just come down, always with switchbacks, always great views...
...and lunch in this seasonal tent village at the bottom of the first descent...
...and then the next 'small' climb, which really means another hour and a half...
...to get to the top of today's second pass, the 'low' pass at only 15,500 feet...
...and admire the view in now sunny weather...
...and get the support crew to pose...
...and then the big descent - you guessed it, switchbacks - over 20 km of hardly an upslope...
...glad they were counting - 21 switchbacks...
...the only problem being that we still have 30 km to go to camp and although it isn't crazt steep as the ascents to the passes, it is a significant (meaning we're cycling slowly) climb...
The late afternoon lighting is gorgeous...
...but it is fading as we tackle a river flowing through the road to the bridge as we cross out of Ladekh state into the state of Himachal Pradesh.
Overtaken by sunset, we got a ride the last 5 km to camp...
...to be continued...
You guys are rock and road stars! Thinking of you every day, and wishing you safe travels. Hugs, J & B
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