Sunday 8 September - Nako to Kalpa
Over 100 km today - we descend an overall 600 m up to the 95 km point, but then comes the killer climb of 800 m climb in last 17 km.
Coming out of Nako, a quick look back reveals the kind of terrain that lends itself to tiny roads navigating the barren hillsides, but not much else.
The descent out of Nako was steep enough but treacherous on the dirt road - yes there was tarmac in places but rough and constantly giving way to broken tarmac, dirt and river-rock filled washouts.
Afte the first descent, it was into canyons with the road literally carved out of the cliff-sides. Lots of steep climbs to slow us down, and when we weren't climbing, poor road and construction slowed the progress - you didn't get much back from gravity on this part of the road.
We're coming away now from near the India-Tibet border and start to get into more cultivation and trees.
Halfway through the day, the highway improved enormously with a lot of full two-lane well-paved road. Where it isn't already two lanes, they're widening it, so still lots of rough dirt. And rock slides are an ever-present hazard, so much so that the Border Roads people call it the world's most treacherous road.
So it wasn't a fast 95 km to the bottom of the climb to the hotel. Extra vehicles had been arranged for those who wished a lift up the hill. Ursula took advantage of that. Rae had to climb it, arriving at the hotel two-and-a-half hours later just in time to get the alpenglow from the hotel room window of the mountains on the other side of the valley.
Monday 9 September - Kalpa to Rampur
We descend for most of the day; things become hotter and more humid. The hillsides now are green with trees, and there seem to be settlements almost everywhen up and down the steep slopes. We passed a major dam and hydro-electric facility as we descended...
...and then continued through a few narrow canyons, again wth roads clinging to the canyon wall.
As the day went on, population density increased as well as agricultural activity.
Tonight's hotel in Rampur was actually below 1000 metres elevation - we haven't been that low since leaving Canada a month ago.
Tuesday 10 September - Rampur to Shimla
Today was a big one - 130 km, the first 30 of which was a rolling slight descent along the river valley. But then came the big climb, like the REALLY big climb of 2000 metres in the next 35 km. There was not even an inch of respite, the road just kept going up and we were very happy to have granny gears. And it was hot, already between 25 and 30 when we started the climb. Humid too. Sweat buckets.
The region grows apples and now is the time they're being taken off the hills, sorted and loaded on bigger trucks to go south. Much of this work goes on roadside so dodging apple trucks was a big part of the day.
The hillsides themselves are full of apple trees that look like they're covered with tents. We thought maybe it was to keep birds off, but apparently not, something to do with growing conditions. Perhaps it's to avoid the effect of the intense sunlight and heat in the region?
The time and distance combined with the amount of climbing made it an enormous challenge to complete the day's ride before dark, so Ursula sent Rae ahead during the climb as he was climbing better. Ursula joined some of the other ladies and they celebrated topping the big hill - seriously, that was a minimum of five hours of nothing but struggling uphill. We complain about the hill up to our house. This hill was ten times that.
Rae made it into Shimla arriving at the hotel a few seconds before sunset having booted it through some amazing descents (paid for by additional climbs) approaching Shimla. Amazing place from first look - all the buildings hanging on the edge of the steep slopes. Tunnels, some pedestrian only, to link one side of the hill to the other. This photo is from the hotel window looking towards the main part of town. Christ Church on the right side on the top of the ridge; a large Indian flag in the middle. Two days of rest here to explore town and do laundry and do blogs and... yes... REST!
Inspiration for the day is another in the series of innovative road signs from the Border Roads Organization...
Over 100 km today - we descend an overall 600 m up to the 95 km point, but then comes the killer climb of 800 m climb in last 17 km.
Coming out of Nako, a quick look back reveals the kind of terrain that lends itself to tiny roads navigating the barren hillsides, but not much else.
We descend for most of the day; things become hotter and more humid. The hillsides now are green with trees, and there seem to be settlements almost everywhen up and down the steep slopes. We passed a major dam and hydro-electric facility as we descended...
Tuesday 10 September - Rampur to Shimla
Today was a big one - 130 km, the first 30 of which was a rolling slight descent along the river valley. But then came the big climb, like the REALLY big climb of 2000 metres in the next 35 km. There was not even an inch of respite, the road just kept going up and we were very happy to have granny gears. And it was hot, already between 25 and 30 when we started the climb. Humid too. Sweat buckets.
The region grows apples and now is the time they're being taken off the hills, sorted and loaded on bigger trucks to go south. Much of this work goes on roadside so dodging apple trucks was a big part of the day.
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